Saturday, April 19, 2014

Butts butts and more butts

Or "bums" as they call them here. I have taken so many photos of animal butts the last three days it's ridiculous:





 And we've learned some pretty cool facts, such as cheetahs don't have collar bones and can't jump very high. But they can sit on a stump and look majestic:


(it kind of looks like he's in a cage, but he just happens to like the border of the reserve that's right next to another reserve.)

Aloe is used by Zulu moms to wean babies:


Amarula is essentially the South African version of Bailey's (except better in my opinion). We add it to our coffees after the morning drives:


We also learned that elephants throw tantrums. We watched the little girl elephant throw a hissy fit by trumpeting and ripping trees out of the ground - no pics, but I'll upload the video when we have a better connection.

We watched a roof thatching. We can't figure out how it works and have just chalked it up to magic:


Oh yeah, and this happened:


No, not the aggressive face grab, the gorgeous ring (that I can't get a good closeup shot of) that's on my finger :)  I thought Trisha's proposal was a joke at first since I happened to be flipping through a copy of "South African Bride" in the lounge at the time (sorry baby!).

It's most definitely been an amazing vacation, and we still have much more to go!




Friday, April 18, 2014

Second longest day ever!

Access to wi-fi is anything but easy in South Africa! We have been prepping our blog posts while we wait for the wi-fi to come back up at the lodge, or find it elsewhere.

At 1am on Wednesday I tried to insist to Taylor that it was time to get up. I have a vague memory of being quite certain that I had a better sense of what time it was than all of our devices. Thankfully Taylor convinced me to go back to sleep, because I would need the rest! Our reserve doesn’t have a lot of the game we want to see so we had a half day excursion planned at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi departing just before sunrise; we were out the door by 4:30 for a fun drive. It was dark, it was stormy, the windshield wipers could barely keep up (and they swish the wrong way which is really distracting), other drivers were “encouraging” me to drive half on the shoulder of the 2-lane highway because I was unwilling to go 120kph in the conditions, and let’s not forget that driving on the left side of the road isn’t exactly second nature yet. Have we mentioned yet how many workers and school children walk many miles along the side of the road for their daily commute? We showed up a few minutes after 6, convinced that all had been for naught and that the guide would have left without us but as lions apparently don’t like storms any more than we do, the tour was cancelled. (Insert appropriate emoticon here.)

The guide suggested that we go to St. Lucia and check out the wetlands. We decided to continue the morning’s trend of keeping it safe and walked along the Estuary Boardwalk.


Luckily the only wildlife we saw were many vervets (I don’t know why they refuse to let me take their pictures), reptiles, insects, birds and this giant snail that would easily fill your outstretched hand.



We did hear a hippo that was pretty close by so we decided it was best to move along as they can waddle at over 20mph. Next we drove around the Eastern Shores of and saw lots of amazingness! There is a paved road with many dirt loop side roads, though after the first one we decided that Wimpy wasn’t really up for the task thanks to the downpours that morning. We went out to Cape Vidal and put our toes in the Indian Ocean. Taylor says that this picture looks like it was taken at Ocean Shores. Haha, we aren’t actually in Africa everybody!


Oh, and don’t let the puny clouds in that pic fool you, here’s one taken a few minutes later showing the angry clouds that threw giant raindrops at us as we got back into the car. They move incredibly fast here!


We grabbed lunch at a place that can best be compared to what I think Long John Silver’s is like, and, lucky us, Wednesday is half priced sushi day! We politely declined the special – the cheap to brave ratio doesn’t allow for half-priced sushi.

Thanks to all of the jostling in the safari truck, I needed to pick up some Dramamine to deal with my vertigo. The pharmacist informed that it had been banned 30 years prior in South Africa because of the side effects, but he had plenty of suggestions for better medications that actually make you feel normal, instead of bad in a different way. Way to go USA! Wi-fi nearly everywhere but your solution for motion sickness could not be purchased from a pharmacy that was only open because they had a generator to deal with the regular brownouts.

On to the Emdoneni Cat Rehabilitation Centre!



This place was really cool. Cats have been hunted nearly to the point of extinction for their pelts, medicinal purposes, or by farmers protecting their herds. Emdoneni is working to eradicate these problems and to increase the populations of cheetahs, cervals, caracals and African wild cats with their breeding pairs that for one reason or another cannot be released back into the wild (too comfortable with humans, half blind, etc). One way they raise both awareness and funds is through tours where this happens:


It is also the place where German tourists are total a-holes. There was a tour bus full of them, and we were repeatedly bumped, leaned on, and pushed while they tried to take pictures and videos. Based on how often and how loudly they were talking I assume they couldn’t understand what the guide was saying. There were a handful of them who seemed to think that it was ok to act like they hadn't yet had a turn petting the cheetah (repeatedly). The worst though was the old guy who thought it was acceptable to LIGHT A CIGARETTE inside the cheetah’s enclosure. Worse than the worst was that when he was done he dropped his butt and ground it under his boot. Did I say something to him? You bet I did!

I took the long, long, long way back to the lodge by mistake, and by the time dinner was over we were ready for bed! Tomorrow's agenda: Sleeping in until 5am for safari time at our lodge!

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Lots of firsts!

Alarms went off at 5am, and though I tried to insist that my alarm most certainly was not going off Taylor made us get up. Good thing she's the boss! This is what we did before breakfast:

Good morning nyalas!


White Rhinoceros (which sounds like "why tyrannosaurus" when our guide Ammon points them out)


Wildebeest!


Zebras and wildebeests are apparently besties. Zebras have great eyesight, the wildebeests have fantastic senses of smell and hearing. Also, the wildebeests graze on tall grasses, and the zebras like short grasses. Symbiosis, baby:


My favorite moment thus far of this vacation: Coming around a corner in our truck and hearing Taylor's gasp as she was the first to spot the giraffe's head poking out above this acacia tree:


Then we went big game hunting - the buffalo would not elude us! We finally found a group of them with a couple of babies. Apparently of the Big 5 the water buffalo are considered the most dangerous as they are rather aggressive. I think the Seahawks ought to draft this guy to protect Danger Russ next year - look at that helmet!


This little guy is only a couple of weeks old but he knows how to get business done:



Silly photo taken in between safaris by our new friend Tim from San Diego. Damn, that hat looks good.




We saw a lot more of the same on the afternoon safari. Kudus, nyalas, giraffes, impalas, warthogs, pythons, insects. We had some mid-evening excitement when the leopard was spotted (apparently no reserve owns the leopards and this is the first time they have been back here in months). We stared at a thicket for ages before our guide decided to move along. We ended up at a watering hole at dusk where we saw hippos, white rhinos (t-rexes) and the ELEPHANTS!!!!! 


So then Amon (our guide) asked me if I wanted to see them closer. Of course I said yes. This photo looks innocuous, wait until we have enough internet bandwidth to upload the video Taylor took.....


We ended the drive looking for a cheetah, until there was an emergency call from the reserve regarding our luggage (quite confusing) so we all got an African massage (aka hauled ass on a bumpy dirt track in the bush). Apparently some other guest accidentally dumped his suitcase in Wimpy's trunk and didn't notice for hours and hours. I have no idea how this makes sense.



See y'all tomorrow! Today was indeed the best day ever :)

--Trish

PS - BIG news to come! We have an early morning ahead of us, but we'll fill y'all in tomorrow ;) 

--Taylor










Monday, April 14, 2014

Longest day ever!

Oy! We woke up Saturday morning in Seattle, it's currently almost 10pm on Monday in our new time zone with nothing but airplane naps. Please excuse any ridiculousness :)

So obviously we have arrived, but wow it's been an adventure. Our first flight from SeaTac to Heathrow was a breeze (I highly recommend flying British Airways - free food, movies, and booze). We had a layover at Heathrow where we came to the painful discovery that the TSA approved sacks for liquids don't work in Britain.
Me: Are Americans really the only alcoholics in the world?
Taylor: No, just the cheapest.

Also, Heatherow is essentially the Hamptons.

So fast forward another really long flight with some dozing in a BIG ASS PLANE. 3 loading ramps and still the passengers are assholes who can't figure out how to appropriately load their baggage. Whatevs.

Cut to Johannesburg and a super long line to get accepted into the country. They don't believe in drinking fountains in this country. Took us for fucking ever to find an ATM after we finally survived the passport line, though the cash machines here sound like Vegas when they dispense money so that was good. Had a bit of a SNAFU finding our rental car, then we sat in Wimpy for a few minutes trying to wrap our heads around driving from the passenger side and figure out just how to turn on the windshield wipers.

Driving in Johannesburg was a disaster.

The shoulders on the highways in South Africa are a disaster.

Ermelo makes every other disaster look like a picnic.

Finally we made it to our turnoff. While driving up the road wishing I had my Subaru and giving Wimpy a pep talk we saw a safari's worth of animals. First thing we saw was the single elusive cheetah that lives here. After that, the impalas, nyalas, zebras, warthogs, and buffalo things also greeted us. Upon trying to go for dinner Taylor was attacked by a grasshopper, a moth, and the world's largest upside-down beetle. Can't wait for tomorrow! Many pics to come, we were too delirious to take many today.


Love you all, here's hoping tomorrow is the greatest day ever!

Saturday, April 12, 2014

The plane :(

Hey kids!

We are on the plane, and yes, Trisha is wearing her safari hat. The next 36 hours will be filled with sitting on our asses - either on a plane, in an airport, or in the car on the 7 hour drive to the safari lodge. Wish us luck!!

TnT

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Welcome!

Over the next couple of weeks this blog will become chock full of amazing adventures that we can't wait to share with you. Look for pictures of lions, rhinos, penguins and tons of other animals (literally - have you seen how big elephants and hippos are?) as well as exotic flowers, birds, landscapes, meals and who knows what else! South Africa is a big and bold country, filled with amazing things that you literally can't see anywhere else in the world. It's going to be a bit of a whirlwind tour - our safari lodge is in the KwaZulu-Natal region as is our next stop, Durban, then we fly to the Western Cape for Cape Town to finish our trip. Blog updates will likely happen during the evening which will mean mid-morning updates back home!

Huge thanks to our house/cat sitter, the dog sitter(s) and everybody else who is making this trip possible!